Making pasta from scratch seems to intimidate lots of people in the same way that making yeast breads can. I don’t know whether it’s because I’m too simple to be afraid, but I’ve never seen a recipe that was too complex for me to try, if only just once. There are innumerous varieties for pasta making; many people like a one parts semolina two parts white flour (like King Arthur’s All Purpose) but I prefer using just one flour. I make pasta using a Tuscan recipe which makes it Oh so easy because there are exactly two ingredients: eggs and semolina flour.
The exact flour to egg ratio takes a bit of practice, but the ratio is roughly 1 egg to 100g of flour. This can change due to the fineness of the flour and the size of the egg so I have decided it’s much easier to just do it by feel. The end result should be dough that can be easily kneaded without sticking to your hands something like this:
Cover that ball and let it rest for at least fifteen minutes. If you want to let it rest longer, use a damp towel to cover it. Then you divide the ball into several portions. Work with one portion at a time, keeping the others covered. First roll out the first portion then pass it through the pasta machine.
The first pass through the pasta machine doesn’t seem to do much, but that’s okay. Just keep folding the dough into thirds or quarters, and pass it through the rollers again. After several passes through the rollers the texture and color will change. The dough becomes lighter in color and begins to feel silky. That’s when you start to adjust the setting on the roller to make the pasta thinner. The goal is to be able to see your hand through the pasta. You can then cut your pasta to the shape/size you need.
If you are cutting the pasta into spaghetti, linguine, etc separate the strands right away or they will rejoin again into a depressing clump. If you are drying the pasta only let it hang for a few minutes before transferring it to sheet pan or the pasta will attach itself to the rack and shatter when removed.
When you’re ready to cook the pasta bring a pot of well salted water to a boil. Cook pasta one portion at a time only until it floats to the surface (this can take as little as 30 sec) Then scoop out, cook another portion and use in your favorite pasta recipe.
Basic Pasta Recipe
• 600g/1lb 6oz Tipo ‘00’ flour*
• 6 large free-range or organic eggs or 12 yolks
Place the flour on a board or in a bowl. Make a well in the centre and crack the eggs into it. Beat the eggs with a fork until smooth. Using the tips of your fingers, mix the eggs with the flour, incorporating a little at a time, until everything is combined. Knead the pieces of dough together – with a bit of work and some love and attention they’ll all bind together to give you one big, smooth lump of dough!
You can also make your dough in a food processor if you’ve got one. Just bung everything in, whiz until the flour looks like breadcrumbs, then tip the mixture on to your work surface and bring the dough together into one lump, using your hands.
Once you’ve made your dough you need to knead and work it with your hands to develop the gluten in the flour, otherwise your pasta will be flabby and soft when you cook it, instead of springy and al dente.
There’s no secret to kneading. You just have to bash the dough about a bit with your hands, squashing it into the table, reshaping it, pulling it, stretching it, squashing it again. It’s quite hard work, and after a few minutes it’s easy to see why the average Italian grandmother has arms like Frank Bruno! You’ll know when to stop – it’s when your pasta starts to feel smooth and silky instead of rough and floury. Then all you need to do is wrap it in cling film and put it in the fridge to rest for at least half an hour before you use it. Make sure the cling film covers it well or it will dry out and go crusty round the edges (this will give you crusty lumps through your pasta when you roll it out, and nobody likes crusty lumps!).
If using a machine to roll your pasta, make sure it’s clamped firmly to a clean work surface before you start (use the longest available work surface you have). Dust your work surface with some Tipo ‘00’ flour*, take a lump of pasta dough the size of a large orange and press it out flat with your fingertips. Set the pasta machine at its widest setting – and roll the lump of pasta dough through it. Lightly dust the pasta with flour if it sticks at all. Click the machine down a setting and roll the pasta dough through again. Fold the pasta in half, click the pasta machine back up to the widest setting and roll the dough through again. Repeat this process five or six times. It might seem like you’re getting nowhere, but in fact you’re working the dough, and once you’ve folded it and fed it through the rollers a few times, you’ll feel the difference. It’ll be smooth as silk and this means you’re making wicked pasta!
Now it’s time to roll the dough out properly, working it through all the settings on the machine, from the widest down to around the narrowest. Lightly dust both sides of the pasta with a little flour every time you run it through. When you’ve got down to the narrowest setting, to give yourself a tidy sheet of pasta, fold the pasta in half lengthways, then in half again, then in half again once more until you’ve got a square-ish piece of dough. Turn it 90 degrees and feed it through the machine at the widest setting. As you roll it down through the settings for the last time, you should end up with a lovely rectangular silky sheet of dough with straight sides – just like a real pro! If your dough is a little cracked at the edges, fold it in half just once, click the machine back two settings and feed it through again. That should sort things out. Whether you’re rolling by hand or by machine you’ll need to know when to stop. If you’re making pasta like tagliatelle, lasagne or stracchi you’ll need to roll the pasta down to between the thickness of a beer mat and a playing card; if you’re making a stuffed pasta like ravioli or tortellini, you’ll need to roll it down slightly thinner or to the point where you can clearly see your hand or lines of newsprint through it.
Once you’ve rolled your pasta the way you want it, you need to shape or cut it straight away. Pasta dries much quicker than you think, so whatever recipe you’re doing, don’t leave it more than a minute or two before cutting or shaping it. You can lay over a damp clean tea towel which will stop it from drying.
*British for pasta flour (Semolina flour)
Source: A Jamie Oliver Recipe